The 1,607-metre Col de Turini is a brooding and sometimes savage presence, surrounded by deep gorges and dark forests. The queen of the Nice backcountry, it sits less than 50 kilometres from our HQ on Nice port.

With three or four hefty road climbs snaking up to the col – the shortest of them is 18 kilometres long – plus trails, forests and even a road looping above the col, it’s without doubt one of our favourite places to get lost in the wilderness.

The longest of the approaches leaves from Sospel, a beautiful Italianate village on the Bévéra river. In centuries past it was an important hitching post on the salt route to Turin. Now, its shady promenade plays host to hikers, hunters, motorcyclists and of course the many cyclists – locals, tourists and pros – that flock here. Sospel is located in a deep natural basin surrounded by mountaines: every way out involves a climb.

Our usual pitstop if we’re just passing through is the artisanal Boulangerie de Sospel, for a slice of pizza or foccaccia, a goats’ cheese and chard pastry or a sweet slice of tart. There are always cold drinks in the fridge and the little coffee machine on the back counter is always busy. A quick savoury bite for strength to face the challenge ahead, or a sugary snack as a reward after an effort.

Up the road to the Turini, the sounds of the town quickly fall away. The silence is disturbed only by the wind and, in the distance, a waterfall tumbling into the void. The road winds up the side of a tight gorge, passes the tiny chapel of Notre Dame de Menour and through the small village of Le Moulinet, before diving into the forest, with tantalising glimpses of snow-capped peaks between the trees. It's hard work, but peaceful and stunningly beautiful. And there’s cafés at the top…