NO PAIN, NO PAIN AU CHOCOLAT
3. LA MORTOLA

Our series spotlighting great cafés on our favourite rides out of Nice continues with something a little different: Bar La Grotta.

Not every ride has to be a smashfest. The hallowed tradition of the coffee ride in fact demands that some should be pedalled softly. Or as they say in Italy, “Piano, piano.” Rest, recovery and physical and mental relaxation, with a little treat in the middle.

Bar La Grotta is that treat. It’s often a destination for the region’s pro cyclists when they’re out on an easy ride, and it’s somewhere we like to go when we’re cruising along the coast, taking things slowly, enjoying the views and chatting with friends.
You can find it by taking the old road out of Menton towards Italy, less than a hundred metres across the border. But those hundred metres make a difference.

For one thing, the coffee really is better over there. In France, we can try as hard as we like, but it’s in their DNA. And the gelato is pretty amazing too. We always get the pistachio and the chocolate, for a little mid-ride boost. Or on colder days, a "cioccolata" so thick the spoon stands up straight. With a view over the bay back into France, it really is la dolce vita.
The coast road between Nice and Italy can be busy, but it's relatively flat – for the region – and there are beautiful views. Once you’re on the Italian side, the sights, sounds and mood all change. The smell of pines pervades the air, and the glasshouses growing flowers on the hillside look out over little boats, all strung out on the water.

Tradition has it that to arrive at Bar La Grotta you ride past it on the coast road, loop around and approach it from the other direction. From the east, it’s a short and easy climb, a couple of kilometres at 5 or 6%, on a beautiful smooth road rising between lush gardens and palm trees to La Mortola. It’s such a good road, it’s easy to get carried away and turn on the taps… and the coffee ride becomes a little more competitive after all.
