In winter, riding habits change. We don’t head inland so far or so high, instead rediscovering some favourite routes – and favourite cafés – that we might not have visited so much through the summer.

The ride to Dolceacqua is one of those gems. It takes in the classic coast road to the Italian border, then heads through bustling Ventimiglia and up the wide Nervia river valley towards the hills on the horizon, until Dolceacqua’s ruined castle and 15th-century bridge appear. There are few tourists at this time of year, but on clear winter mornings the little village is bustling with life.

Bar della Palma sits in hazy morning sunshine in a piazza next to the lazy river. Take a seat on the terrace, order a cioccolata or a coffee – it really is better in Italy than in France, but the caffè lungo here is short, dark and intense! – and sit back and take it all in. Italian Riviera winter style is padded jackets and sunglasses, with maybe a silk scarf, and the streets hum with Piaggios and Fiat Pandas. Italian cyclists, meanwhile, are always immaculate in pristine kit.

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At Bar della Palma they make pastries in-house, and also do a mean piadina. If you need more, they serve beautiful ravioli with sage, or even a burger – but don't load up too much, there are hills on the way home.

Out of town, the hills close in, and the climbs begin. The way back into France is via the Col de Vescavo, which rises through a sleepy village to a deserted border post. Even in early December, the sun unlocks the scent of the pines along the road, and there are the last unharvested olives in the olive groves all around.

Then it gets wilder: Col de Vescavo is only 477 metres above sea level, but it's hidden in no-mans-land, among deep gorges and thick forests, and the descent back into France proper is amazing. In all, a stunning 130-140 kilometre ride that never feels like work, and one of the best coffee stops around!

Bar della Palma: Piazza Vittoria 4, 18035 Dolceacqua (IM), Italy.

Want some more winter dolce vita? Check out our Mortola ride. Or the Col de Braus is also rideable all year round.