Gabriel Refait runs a vintage bicycle restoration business in Aix-en-Provence, and is behind the recently relaunched classic French cycle brand Dilecta. He’s a fan of the bike in all its forms. “Rare are the objects that are at once everyday, popular, simple, ecological, practical, yet also high-performing, beautiful, exclusive and even futuristic. The bicycle is all of them at once,” he says. Early this summer, he set off with his partner, Clara, to Ireland, swapping Provençal landscapes for something a lot greener… and wetter. Here he tells us about dodging storms and sheep and why it’s such an enchanting country.

What draws you to vintage bicycles?

First of all, it's the aesthetics, for sure. Simple, sleek lines, round tubes, details, chrome finishes. The eye wanders, searching out every small engraving, every little originality in the typography. They’re objects that bring a smile and evoke memories for everyone. I see it when I cross any country in Europe, whether in big cities or tiny hamlets. People look, stop me and talk to me. It’s almost as if my bike belongs to them too, since they themselves – or someone they loved – once owned a similar one.

How did you get the idea to go touring on a tandem?

Almost two years ago, I met Clara. She loved travel and adventure but wasn’t a cyclist. From the start of our relationship, I wanted to share with her my passion for long rides and the feeling of freedom that comes with them. But at that time, our skill levels were so different that we couldn’t really enjoy riding together. Waiting or being waited for isn’t fun for anyone. That’s how the tandem experience slowly emerged as a solution. It allowed us to ride together, at the same pace, while each putting in the effort that was right for us. Soon we did our first rides and cycling weekends, until we completed a 200-kilometre Audax together last November.

Why Ireland, and what did you take with you?

First of all, for the Celtic culture and imagery, which we found fascinating. But also for the promise of discovering lush, truly refreshing landscapes for us southern folks. We set off with our Follis tandem, equipped with six waterproof canvas panniers. They contained everything needed to ride self-sufficiently. The front panniers were dedicated to camping gear (tent, sleeping mats, sleeping bags, etc.), while the rear ones held our clothes, personal items, and tools. For clothing, each of us brought an Alizée rain jacket, which proved to be our best ally against the Irish rain. We also each had a pair of Evie shorts, which I really like for their lightness and durability. They’re the perfect companion for travelers who don’t need to ride with a chamois pad. When the weather was nice, we also wore Claudine shirts, which perfectly combine style and technical performance. Finally, each of us had a pair of Café du Cycliste sunglasses perched on our noses (whenever the sun deigned to show itself). If we were doing it again, we’d take the same things, no hesitation.

What were the impressions of Ireland that stayed with you?

All of Ireland is beautiful and very diverse (but also quite mountainous). The most spectacular landscapes are found in the western part of the island. We loved riding through Killarney National Park as well as the better-known Connemara. Those bare mountains plunging into the dark waters of countless lakes – it’s magical. We also had the chance to visit many well-preserved abbeys and monuments. The remnants of Celtic heritage mixed with early Christianity are truly everywhere. Each evening, we pitched our tent before heading to the pub. Maybe it was the pubs that left the strongest impression on us after all. The pub is where everyone gathers to share a drink and a convivial moment. They are literally the centre of Irish villages.

Tell us about a memorable moment from your trip.

I remember this evening when we arrived at a campsite facing the ocean. The villages were deserted, the wind was blowing hard, and we had been riding for three hours in pouring rain. We knew we had to be very quick setting up our tent to try and keep our gear as dry as possible. We put down the tandem and in less than five minutes, the tent was up. It was raining so hard that water had managed to seep through the mosquito netting before we could put the flysheet on. Even once it was fully pitched, the inside of the tent was completely soaked, as if we’d sprayed it with a hose. I can picture us running through the rain toward the toilets to steal huge rolls of toilet paper to soak up all the water running inside our little tent. We were full of adrenaline and caught in nervous laughter, right between the urge to smash everything and accepting a rainstorm that we couldn’t fight. Afterward, we found a pub where we dried all our clothes while drinking the local speciality – a hot whisky with cloves. It was both one of the worst and the best moments of the trip.

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What other difficulties did you face?

Aside from the bad weather, we had a lot of problems with the tandem’s back wheel. We were so loaded up that we broke more than 20 spokes during the three-week trip. I did a lot of daily fixing.

How did the tandem change your adventure?

I’m used to riding on my own all day long, so I really loved the experience of sharing one machine. On climbs, we encouraged each other; on descents, we laughed together. You really need your partner to keep moving. Tandem riding requires real communication skills and a lot of trust in each other. It’s quite a test for a couple.

What’s the first memory that comes to mind when you think of this trip?

Clara’s smile, even after hours of riding in the rain.

And if you had to describe this experience in three words?
Rain, beer, love.